{"id":1445,"date":"2015-10-05T14:22:32","date_gmt":"2015-10-05T12:22:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=1445"},"modified":"2015-10-02T23:12:48","modified_gmt":"2015-10-02T21:12:48","slug":"wlodek-poblogoslaw","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=1445","title":{"rendered":"W\u0142odek, pob\u0142ogos\u0142aw"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>W nocy nie mog\u0142em zasn\u0105\u0107, a jak zasn\u0105\u0142em, zerwa\u0142 si\u0119 wicher znad jeziora i coraz natarczywiej dobiera\u0142 si\u0119 do namiotu. Wia\u0142o tak, i\u017c zupe\u0142nie powa\u017cnie zacz\u0105\u0142em rozwa\u017ca\u0107 odprawienie obrz\u0119d\u00f3w w intencji, tylko zapomnia\u0142em odpowiednich s\u0142\u00f3w. A jak ju\u017c si\u0119 obudzi\u0142em, tak nie mog\u0142em zasn\u0105\u0107, wiadomo.<br \/>\nRano obudzi\u0142y si\u0119 komary. Lata\u0142o ich coraz wi\u0119cej tak, \u017ce pakowanie sz\u0142o z coraz wi\u0119ksz\u0105 ochot\u0105. Tutejsze meserszmity og\u0142upia\u0142e jesieni\u0105: zamiast, jak przysta\u0142o porz\u0105dnemu krwiopijcy, wrazi\u0107 aparat ss\u0105co &#8211; k\u0142uj\u0105cy w cia\u0142o ofiary, obija\u0142y si\u0119 w jakim\u015b amoku.<br \/>\nWiedzieli\u015bmy, i\u017c zbli\u017camy si\u0119 do kr\u0119gu polarnego, wi\u0119c szukali\u015bmy na wszystkich mapach punkt\u00f3w orientacyjnych, i\u017cby nie przegapi\u0107, a nawet uwieczni\u0107 historyczny moment jego przekraczania.<br \/>\nM\u00f3j Bo\u017ce, c\u00f3\u017c to za miejsce cudowne, pe\u0142ne wdzi\u0119ku i dyskretnej, arktycznej elegancji. To trzeba zobaczy\u0107. Dlatego niniejszym za\u0142\u0105czam.<a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2717.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1447\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=1447\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2717.jpg?fit=2464%2C1632&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2464,1632\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;11&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Przemyslaw &#039;volen&#039; Wollenszleger&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;NIKON D7000&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1443602937&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;16&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;400&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.0125&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"_VOL2717\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2717.jpg?fit=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1447\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2717.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"_VOL2717\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2717.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2717.jpg?resize=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1 2048w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2717.jpg?resize=528%2C350&amp;ssl=1 528w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nACDC znalaz\u0142a gdziesik w\u015br\u00f3d szparga\u0142\u00f3w informacj\u0119, i\u017c Kowda (taka nadbia\u0142omorskobrze\u017cna wiocha) dysponuje pi\u0119kn\u0105 XV-to wieczn\u0105 cerkwi\u0105, wi\u0119c zboczyli\u015bmy, by obejrze\u0107 i do\u015bwiadczy\u0107.<br \/>\nTam, przed Kowd\u0105, jest koniec wszystkich dr\u00f3g. Nie taki koniec w rozumieniu szlaban i dalej las, nie. To koniec matafizyczno &#8211; filozoficzny, ostateczny upadek fizyczny, a nawet moralny. Tak przegrywa cywilizacja.<a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2732.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1448\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=1448\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2732.jpg?fit=2464%2C1632&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2464,1632\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;11&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Przemyslaw &#039;volen&#039; Wollenszleger&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;NIKON D7000&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1443605471&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;31&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;400&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.008&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"_VOL2732\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2732.jpg?fit=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1448\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2732.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"_VOL2732\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2732.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2732.jpg?resize=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1 2048w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2732.jpg?resize=528%2C350&amp;ssl=1 528w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2763.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1449\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=1449\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2763.jpg?fit=2464%2C1632&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2464,1632\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;11&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Przemyslaw &#039;volen&#039; Wollenszleger&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;NIKON D7000&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1443607516&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;185&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;100&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.025&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"_VOL2763\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2763.jpg?fit=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1449\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2763.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"_VOL2763\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2763.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2763.jpg?resize=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1 2048w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2763.jpg?resize=528%2C350&amp;ssl=1 528w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nCerkiew, no c\u00f3\u017c, jak cerkiew.<a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2743.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1450\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=1450\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2743.jpg?fit=2464%2C1632&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2464,1632\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;11&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Przemyslaw &#039;volen&#039; Wollenszleger&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;NIKON D7000&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1443606069&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;35&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;400&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.008&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"_VOL2743\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2743.jpg?fit=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1450\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2743.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"_VOL2743\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2743.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2743.jpg?resize=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1 2048w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2743.jpg?resize=528%2C350&amp;ssl=1 528w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a> Zza cerkwi wygl\u0105da\u0142o na mnie Morze Bia\u0142e.<a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2758.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1452\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=1452\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2758.jpg?fit=2464%2C1632&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2464,1632\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;11&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Przemyslaw &#039;volen&#039; Wollenszleger&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;NIKON D7000&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1443607098&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;16&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;100&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.066666666666667&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"_VOL2758\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2758.jpg?fit=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1452\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2758.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"_VOL2758\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2758.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2758.jpg?resize=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1 2048w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2758.jpg?resize=528%2C350&amp;ssl=1 528w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a> No, mo\u017ce zim\u0105 Morze jest bia\u0142e, bo teraz jedynie z nazwy.<a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2774.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1453\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=1453\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2774.jpg?fit=2464%2C1632&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2464,1632\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;11&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Przemyslaw &#039;volen&#039; Wollenszleger&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;NIKON D7000&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1443616804&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;35&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;100&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.05&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"_VOL2774\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2774.jpg?fit=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1453\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2774.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"_VOL2774\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2774.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2774.jpg?resize=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1 2048w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2774.jpg?resize=528%2C350&amp;ssl=1 528w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nKorzystaj\u0105c z chwilowej przerwy w podr\u00f3\u017cy zjedli\u015bmy, napili\u015bmy, ch\u0142opaki posz\u0142y szuka\u0107 w\u0119dkarskiego szcz\u0119\u015bcia, a ja zmy\u0142em naczynia w rzece. B\u0142yska\u0142o do mnie z\u0142otem co\u015b z nurtu, takie p\u0142ateczki, nie pami\u0119tam dok\u0142adnie, jak si\u0119 to nazywa: mika? Piryt?<br \/>\nRuszyli\u015bmy do Kanda\u0142akszy. Dozna\u0142em jakiego\u015b spl\u0105tania czasoprzestrzennego i na skutek chwilowego parali\u017cu cz\u0119\u015bci centralnego uk\u0142adu nerwowego zacz\u0105\u0142em szuka\u0107 na mapie Kanda\u0142akszy pi\u0119knej XV-to wiecznej cerkwi. Znalaz\u0142em jedn\u0105, za to w trzech ods\u0142onach (ewidentnie religijne konotacje), potem zawiod\u0142em jeszcze towarzystwo do punktu widokowego, a mia\u0142em jeszcze zamiar wci\u0105gn\u0105\u0107 ich dalej w g\u0142\u0105b bezdennej odch\u0142ani mego szwankuj\u0105cego chwilowo umys\u0142u i zaprowadzi\u0107 do mitycznych ruin antycznego labiryntu, ale si\u0119 nie dali.<br \/>\nZa to wygryziony ju\u017c cz\u0119\u015bciowo W\u0142odzimierz b\u0142ogos\u0142awi\u0142 naszej wyprawie z wy\u017cyn swego majestatu.<a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2787-e1443819556883.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1454\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=1454\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2787-e1443819556883.jpg?fit=1632%2C2464&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1632,2464\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;8&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Przemyslaw &#039;volen&#039; Wollenszleger&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;NIKON D7000&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1443618895&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;22&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;400&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.005&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;8&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"_VOL2787\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2787-e1443819556883.jpg?fit=1356%2C2048&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1454\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2787-e1443819556883-678x1024.jpg?resize=678%2C1024&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"_VOL2787\" width=\"678\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2787-e1443819556883.jpg?resize=678%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 678w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2787-e1443819556883.jpg?resize=1356%2C2048&amp;ssl=1 1356w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2787-e1443819556883.jpg?resize=232%2C350&amp;ssl=1 232w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2787-e1443819556883.jpg?w=1632&amp;ssl=1 1632w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 678px) 100vw, 678px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nPob\u0142ogos\u0142awi\u0142 na tyle, i\u017c w knajpie z misiem zjedli\u015bmy najlepiej zrobion\u0105 baranin\u0119 w ostatnich latach. To nasze wsp\u00f3lnie uzgodnione z Kapitanem stanowisko.<br \/>\nWieczorem wbili\u015bmy si\u0119 do Murma\u0144ska. Miasto w recesji, drogi w rozbudowie. Z takim rozmachem mo\u017ce dzia\u0142a\u0107 tylko nar\u00f3d rosyjski. Lub \u0142otewski, gdy\u017c oni te\u017c rozkopali p\u00f3\u0142 kraju. Lub&#8230; zupe\u0142nie jak u nas przed Euro&#8230; Hmmm&#8230;<a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2851.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1457\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=1457\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2851.jpg?fit=2464%2C1632&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2464,1632\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;11&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Przemyslaw &#039;volen&#039; Wollenszleger&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;NIKON D7000&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1443635567&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;52&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;100&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;2.5&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"_VOL2851\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2851.jpg?fit=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1457\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2851.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"_VOL2851\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2851.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2851.jpg?resize=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1 2048w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2851.jpg?resize=528%2C350&amp;ssl=1 528w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nTak przywita\u0142 nas Murma\u0144sk.<\/p>\n<p>Co ciekawe, moje dzisiejsze nawigacyjne dokonania nie wystraszy\u0142y Dru\u017cyny Pier\u015bcienia: pozwolili grzecznie zaprowadzi\u0107 si\u0119 do wybranego przeze mnie hostelu Okrug.<br \/>\nZajechali\u015bmy, a tam, rzecz oczywista, nikt o hostelu nie s\u0142ysza\u0142, nikt go nie widzia\u0142. Dziwnie przylepna kobieta sugerowa\u0142a jaki\u015b hotel, ale nie dali\u015bmy si\u0119 zwie\u015b\u0107 i ruszyli\u015bmy na poszukiwania. Minut\u0119 p\u00f3\u017aniej z\u0142apa\u0142a nas lekko podchmielona parka i w kr\u00f3tkich abcugach zaprowadzili nas pod same drzwi.<a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2853.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1455\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=1455\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2853.jpg?fit=2464%2C1632&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2464,1632\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;11&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;Przemyslaw &#039;volen&#039; Wollenszleger&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;NIKON D7000&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1443687403&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;16&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;100&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;1&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"_VOL2853\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2853.jpg?fit=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1455\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2853.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"_VOL2853\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2853.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2853.jpg?resize=2048%2C1356&amp;ssl=1 2048w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2853.jpg?resize=528%2C350&amp;ssl=1 528w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nOkrug, hostel robotniczy zrobiony z ogromnego mieszkania, przywita\u0142 nas zdumion\u0105 recepcjonistk\u0105, kt\u00f3ra, boj\u0105c si\u0119 odpowiedzialno\u015bci, zadzwoni\u0142a po w\u0142a\u015bcicielk\u0119.<br \/>\nGie\u0142a okaza\u0142a si\u0119 niziutk\u0105, roze\u015bmian\u0105 brunetk\u0105, po wejrzeniu w nasze szczere oblicza zezwoli\u0142a nam przenocowa\u0107 i zrobi\u0107 pranie, na wymeldunek da\u0142a nam czas do 19tej dnia nast\u0119pnego, a na wszelki wypadek da\u0142a nam jeszcze sw\u00f3j numer telefonu. Dostali\u015bmy te\u017c has\u0142o do wifi, ale dzia\u0142a\u0142o jedynie chwilami, a dodatkowo tylko na telefonie Pana Golonki. Wi\u0119c interneta niet. Posiedzieli\u015bmy w kuchni, Kapitan z ACDC wypili kupione uprzednio wino, ja za\u015b z Panem Golonk\u0105 wypili\u015bmy po \u0142yku szkockiej trutki na szczury. Za to, co my wiemy, a reszta na razie nie musi. Na zdrowie i za zdrowie!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>W nocy nie mog\u0142em zasn\u0105\u0107, a jak zasn\u0105\u0142em, zerwa\u0142 si\u0119 wicher znad jeziora i coraz&#8230;<\/p>\n<div class=\"more-link-wrapper\"><a class=\"more-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=1445\">Read the post<span class=\"screen-reader-text\">W\u0142odek, pob\u0142ogos\u0142aw<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1460,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[210,93],"tags":[192,219,220,205,211],"class_list":["post-1445","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-matuszka-rosja","category-nawariata","tag-192","tag-kandalaksza","tag-murmansk","tag-nawariata","tag-rosja","excerpt","zoom","full-without-featured","even","excerpt-0"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL2782-e1443820138251.jpg?fit=1632%2C2464&ssl=1","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p4lAri-nj","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":3777,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=3777","url_meta":{"origin":1445,"position":0},"title":"Hydropiek\u0142owst\u0105pienie","author":"volen","date":"2025-04-25","format":false,"excerpt":"Dzi\u015b muzycznie. Utopi\u0119 wasz\u0105 utopi\u0119.Utopi\u0119 wasz\u0105 utopi\u0119.Ja utopi\u0119 wasz\u0105 utopi\u0119,Utopi\u0119 w potopie.Zarz\u0105dzam pe\u0142ne zanurzenie.Utopi\u0119 wasz\u0105 utopi\u0119,Utopi\u0119 w potopie.Hydropiek\u0142owst\u0105pienie! Zacz\u0105\u0142em cytatem z Lao Che, poniewa\u017c, jak Boga kocham, to, co si\u0119 tam dzia\u0142o, jest ju\u017c pi\u0119knie podsumowane w tym cytacie. Pewnego dnia wcze\u015bniej, jako\u015b tak par\u0119 miesi\u0119cy temu, gdy pojecha\u0142em na\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eGSB&quot;","block_context":{"text":"GSB","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=457"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/IMG_20250425_105459.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/IMG_20250425_105459.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/IMG_20250425_105459.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/IMG_20250425_105459.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/IMG_20250425_105459.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1358,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=1358","url_meta":{"origin":1445,"position":1},"title":"Wjazd do Rosji","author":"volen","date":"2015-09-23","format":false,"excerpt":"Granica \u0142otewsko - rosyjska przywita\u0142a nas scen\u0105 jak z horroru. Nie, \u017ceby co\u015b tam si\u0119 dzia\u0142o, Bo\u017ce bro\u0144. To scena otwieraj\u0105ca dobry film o zombie: pusty plac, przemykaj\u0105cy chy\u0142kiem kierowca ci\u0119\u017car\u00f3wki, wszystkiego 3 osoby obs\u0142ugi. Potem si\u0119 rozkr\u0119ci\u0142o, ale na pocz\u0105tek wia\u0142o zapomnieniem. Stan\u0119li\u015bmy tam, gdzie nam kazano, po czym\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201ematuszka Rosja&quot;","block_context":{"text":"matuszka Rosja","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=210"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/kurczak_VOL2017.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/kurczak_VOL2017.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/kurczak_VOL2017.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/kurczak_VOL2017.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/kurczak_VOL2017.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":3060,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=3060","url_meta":{"origin":1445,"position":2},"title":"Z ziemi omskiej do Polski","author":"volen","date":"2018-10-07","format":false,"excerpt":"Z rana, po \u015bniadaniu, Ksenia, menad\u017cerka hostelu, przeprowadzi\u0142a ze mn\u0105 wywiad, kt\u00f3ry podobno nawet gdzie\u015b planowa\u0142a umie\u015bci\u0107 na internetach. Mo\u017cliwe, \u017ce nawet i tak zrobi\u0142a. Wznios\u0142em si\u0119 na wy\u017cyny i gada\u0142em, jak naj\u0119ty, a\u017c si\u0119 okaza\u0142o, \u017ce nie do\u015b\u0107, i\u017c nikt si\u0119 tego nie spodziewa\u0142, to nawet nikt tego nie\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201enawariata&quot;","block_context":{"text":"nawariata","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=93"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":1462,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=1462","url_meta":{"origin":1445,"position":3},"title":"Trzy w jednym, czyli jak wywo\u0142a\u0107 zorz\u0119 i nie zosta\u0107 ze\u017cartym przez krwio\u017cercze lemingi","author":"volen","date":"2015-10-06","format":false,"excerpt":"Czasem facet co\u015b po prostu musi zrobi\u0107. Musi. Trzeba to uszanowa\u0107. I od tego, a tak\u017ce od restauracji zacz\u0105\u0142 si\u0119 dzisiejszy poranek. A by\u0142o to tak. Ja musia\u0142em wrzuci\u0107 par\u0119 wpis\u00f3w na bloga, Pan Golonka musia\u0142 wys\u0142a\u0107 kartk\u0119 do Czarnej Wo\u0142gi. No nie ma [piiiiiiiiiiip] we wsi. Ze wzgl\u0119du na\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201ematuszka Rosja&quot;","block_context":{"text":"matuszka Rosja","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=210"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3056.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3056.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3056.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3056.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3056.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":3088,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=3088","url_meta":{"origin":1445,"position":4},"title":"Ko\u0142omyja","author":"volen","date":"2018-10-15","format":false,"excerpt":"Rano poszed\u0142em si\u0119 przej\u015b\u0107, poszuka\u0107 prawnika, za\u0142atwi\u0107 transport i takie tam drobiazgi. W ca\u0142ym logistycznym szale\u0144stwie usi\u0142owa\u0142em nie zwariowa\u0107, podejmowa\u0107 racjonalne decyzje, koordynowa\u0107, odpowiada\u0107 na pytania, zadawa\u0107 swoje, szuka\u0107 dziwnych rzeczy w dziwnym j\u0119zyku i jeszcze dziwniejszymi literami po rosyjskiej stronie internetu, dzi\u0119ki czemu jest 15:43 a mi si\u0119 chce\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201enawariata&quot;","block_context":{"text":"nawariata","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=93"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":1478,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=1478","url_meta":{"origin":1445,"position":5},"title":"Czochranie leminga &#038; hotel green bitch","author":"volen","date":"2015-10-06","format":false,"excerpt":"Nie rozumiem jak to jest, \u017ce Wam si\u0119 wszystko z jednym kojarzy? Tak, poczochra\u0142em leminga, bo siedzia\u0142 pod pod\u0142og\u0105 namiotu i nie by\u0142 do\u015b\u0107 szybki, by spyli\u0107 zawczasu. Mi\u0119ciutki, mi\u0142y w dotyku. Szybko przeliczy\u0142em, \u017ce potrzeba by z pi\u0119\u0107 na patyk nadzia\u0107, \u017ceby, dopychaj\u0105c si\u0119 chlebem, naje\u015b\u0107 si\u0119 do syta.\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201ematuszka Rosja&quot;","block_context":{"text":"matuszka Rosja","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=210"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3096.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3096.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3096.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3096.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3096.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1445","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1445"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1445\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1461,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1445\/revisions\/1461"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1460"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1445"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1445"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1445"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}