![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/blog_szczyty-_VOL4986.jpg?resize=2048%2C1116&ssl=1\")
<\/a>Teraz siedz\u0119 na parkingu przy Kirkjuffelssfoss, podjechali jacy\u015b ludzie i niepokoj\u0105 swoj\u0105 obecno\u015bci\u0105, a ja pisz\u0119 i czuj\u0119, \u017ce r\u0119ce mi zaczynaj\u0105 marzn\u0105\u0107 – trzeba podkr\u0119ci\u0107 ogrzewanie… Mo\u017ce jednak skusz\u0119 si\u0119 na hostel jaki\u015b w najbli\u017cszym czasie.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"W nocy przeje\u017cd\u017ca\u0142y mimo cztery pojazdy. Pierwszy z nich wystraszy\u0142 mnie solidnie, gdy\u017c w\u0142a\u015bnie zasypia\u0142em.…<\/p>\n
Read the postL\u00f3ndrangar<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2075,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"L\u00f3ndrangar","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[268,93],"tags":[246,269,280,205,281],"class_list":["post-2071","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-islandia","category-nawariata","tag-246","tag-islandia","tag-londrangar","tag-nawariata","tag-snaefellsjokull","excerpt","zoom","full-without-featured","even","excerpt-0"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/blog_panorama-Londrangar-i-Snaefellsjokull_VOL5140.jpg?fit=3196%2C1756&ssl=1","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p4lAri-xp","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":2084,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2084","url_meta":{"origin":2071,"position":0},"title":"Fiordy Zachodnie","author":"volen","date":"2016-11-16","format":false,"excerpt":"Dzisiejszej nocy wichura omal nie przestawi\u0142a samochodu... Hyundai Santa Fe ma z ty\u0142u k\u0105t natarcia, jak \u015bciana hipermarketu, wi\u0119c trz\u0119s\u0142o nim porz\u0105dnie. Wiatr zrywa\u0142 si\u0119 nagle, falami tak, \u017ce nie spos\u00f3b by\u0142o do tego przywykn\u0105\u0107. Nad ranem (ok. 6.00) obudzili mnie przyjezdni azjaci. Du\u017co i g\u0142o\u015bno m\u00f3wili, wi\u0119c doszed\u0142em do\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eIslandia: snj\u00f3r, \u00eds og eldur"","block_context":{"text":"Islandia: snj\u00f3r, \u00eds og eldur","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=268"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/widok-z-g%C3%B3ry-_VOL5262.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/widok-z-g%C3%B3ry-_VOL5262.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/widok-z-g%C3%B3ry-_VOL5262.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/widok-z-g%C3%B3ry-_VOL5262.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/widok-z-g%C3%B3ry-_VOL5262.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":3919,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=3919","url_meta":{"origin":2071,"position":1},"title":"Barania G\u00f3ra","author":"volen","date":"2025-12-03","format":false,"excerpt":"Tu\u017c przed wyjazdem, a w trakcie pakowania, Mieszko ogra\u0142 mnie klika razy w UNO. To taka karciana gra, kt\u00f3rej zasady ch\u0142opcy zmieniaj\u0105 co chwil\u0119 tak, bym \u017cy\u0142 w permanentnej niewiedzy. Nie mia\u0142 lito\u015bci dla ojca, ogra\u0142 do cna, wi\u0119c w g\u00f3ry jecha\u0142em z poczuciem przegranej. Wiadomym by\u0142o, \u017ce tym razem\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eGSB"","block_context":{"text":"GSB","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=457"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/IMG_20251203_090728.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/IMG_20251203_090728.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/IMG_20251203_090728.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/IMG_20251203_090728.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/IMG_20251203_090728.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2321,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2321","url_meta":{"origin":2071,"position":2},"title":"nawariata","author":"volen","date":"2018-06-02","format":false,"excerpt":"Te dwa dni to ci\u0105g\u0142a jazda bez trzymanki. W Saratowie wymy\u015bli\u0142em owe kulki, potem pomy\u015bla\u0142em sobie, \u017ce przecie\u017c to rzut beretem do Morza Kaspijskiego, naoko\u0142o kt\u00f3rego kr\u0105\u017c\u0119 od 8 lat i nie mog\u0119 jako\u015b go dotkn\u0105\u0107, wi\u0119c za jednym rzutem, niejako przy okazji, wpadniemy nad morze. Zacz\u0119li\u015bmy porankiem o zapachu\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201enawariata"","block_context":{"text":"nawariata","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=93"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/VOL0225.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/VOL0225.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/VOL0225.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/VOL0225.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/VOL0225.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2130,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2130","url_meta":{"origin":2071,"position":3},"title":"Przesyt","author":"volen","date":"2016-11-19","format":false,"excerpt":"Dzi\u015b w nocy po raz pierwszy nie szarpa\u0142o moj\u0105 sypialni\u0105. Wsta\u0142em wcze\u015bnie, wypi\u0142em kaw\u0119, zjad\u0142em \u015bniadanie i pojecha\u0142em na fotograficzne safari. Od Vik a\u017c po drog\u0119 na Hamragar\u00f0ahei\u00f0i w okolicach Seljalandsfoss, czyli praktycznie wszystko, co wzbudzi\u0142o moje wczorajsze WOW! Zajecha\u0142em w miejsca, o kt\u00f3rych nawet nie my\u015bla\u0142em, \u017ce do nich\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eIslandia: snj\u00f3r, \u00eds og eldur"","block_context":{"text":"Islandia: snj\u00f3r, \u00eds og eldur","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=268"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/30kmh_VOL5803s.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/30kmh_VOL5803s.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/30kmh_VOL5803s.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/30kmh_VOL5803s.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/30kmh_VOL5803s.jpg?resize=1050%2C600 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/30kmh_VOL5803s.jpg?resize=1400%2C800 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2099,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2099","url_meta":{"origin":2071,"position":4},"title":"Blizzard","author":"volen","date":"2016-11-17","format":false,"excerpt":"W nocy jakie\u015b skrzaty grasowa\u0142y wok\u00f3\u0142 samochodu, budz\u0105c mnie co chwila; p\u00f3\u017aniej okaza\u0142o si\u0119, \u017ce to owieczki. Rano, w \u015bwietle ksi\u0119\u017cyca, porozgl\u0105da\u0142em si\u0119 po okolicy, po czym ruszy\u0142em na zach\u00f3d. Zajecha\u0142em na stacj\u0119 benzynow\u0105, kt\u00f3rej ju\u017c nie ma. Omin\u0105\u0142em wyl\u0119garni\u0119 maskonur\u00f3w. Obejrza\u0142em wodospadzik. Obejrza\u0142em par\u0119 innych rzeczy... Zajecha\u0142em na Alask\u0119...\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eIslandia: snj\u00f3r, \u00eds og eldur"","block_context":{"text":"Islandia: snj\u00f3r, \u00eds og eldur","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=268"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/wsch%C3%B3d_VOL5408.jpg?fit=1200%2C598&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/wsch%C3%B3d_VOL5408.jpg?fit=1200%2C598&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/wsch%C3%B3d_VOL5408.jpg?fit=1200%2C598&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/wsch%C3%B3d_VOL5408.jpg?fit=1200%2C598&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/wsch%C3%B3d_VOL5408.jpg?fit=1200%2C598&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2119,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2119","url_meta":{"origin":2071,"position":5},"title":"Wielki odwr\u00f3t","author":"volen","date":"2016-11-18","format":false,"excerpt":"Zjad\u0142em kanapk\u0119 z sa\u0142atk\u0105, kawy sobie nie robi\u0142em, gdy\u017c o 8.00 otwierali stacj\u0119, dok\u0105d uda\u0142em si\u0119 po \u015bniadaniu. Kawa i wiadomo\u015bci. Otwarto drog\u0119 nr 1 na p\u00f3\u0142noc - jest szansa obejrze\u0107 Hvitserkur. To tylko 60km ode mnie. Droga oblodzona, dwa razy wiatr zakr\u0119ci\u0142 autem, jak ba\u0144k\u0105 mydlan\u0105. Po zje\u017adzie z\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eIslandia: snj\u00f3r, \u00eds og eldur"","block_context":{"text":"Islandia: snj\u00f3r, \u00eds og eldur","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=268"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/koniki-DSC_8557-1.jpg?fit=1200%2C593&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/koniki-DSC_8557-1.jpg?fit=1200%2C593&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/koniki-DSC_8557-1.jpg?fit=1200%2C593&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/koniki-DSC_8557-1.jpg?fit=1200%2C593&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/koniki-DSC_8557-1.jpg?fit=1200%2C593&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2071","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2071"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2071\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2082,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2071\/revisions\/2082"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2075"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2071"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2071"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2071"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}} ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/blog_pofa%C5%82dowana-droga-_VOL4942.jpg?ssl=1\")
<\/a>Po drodze jecha\u0142em wzd\u0142u\u017c pi\u0119knego, pokrytego \u015bniegiem \u0142a\u0144cucha g\u00f3r, u stop kt\u00f3rego ka\u017cdy gospodarz ma sw\u00f3j w\u0142asny wodospad, wodogrzmot, wodokap lub wodosi\u0105p, co tam kt\u00f3remu natura wyznaczy\u0142a. Bardzo \u0142adne rejony, na my\u015bl przywodz\u0105 mi widzian\u0105 rok temu tundr\u0119 na p\u00f3\u0142noc od Murma\u0144ska. To samo surowe pi\u0119kno, ska\u0142y poro\u015bni\u0119te mchem i porostami, przewa\u017caj\u0105 ziele\u0144, br\u0105z i czerwie\u0144, a wszystko to obsypane cukrem pudrem z suchego \u015bniegu.![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/blog_wodospad-w-obej%C5%9Bciu_VOL5011.jpg?ssl=1\")
<\/a>Gdy droga wwiod\u0142a mnie na g\u00f3rsk\u0105 prze\u0142\u0119cz, \u015bnieg przelatywa\u0142 w poprzek drogi, tumani\u0105c si\u0119 nad asfaltem. Potem asfalt si\u0119 sko\u0144czy\u0142, ale ca\u0142e szcz\u0119\u015bcie \u015bnieg zosta\u0142. W takich cudnych warunkach objecha\u0142em p\u00f3\u0142wysep i moim nieprzygotowanym na to wcze\u015bniej oczom ukaza\u0142y si\u0119 jakby ruiny skalnego zamczyska, dwie ogromne, majestatyczne iglice. ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/blog_panorama-Londrangar-i-Snaefellsjokull_VOL5140.jpg?ssl=1\")
<\/a>Sp\u0119dzi\u0142em tam kilka godzin fotografuj\u0105c wszystko w okolicy, po czym wybra\u0142em dalsz\u0105 tras\u0119 i ruszy\u0142em w drog\u0119.![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/blog_Londrangar-z-drogi_VOL5034.jpg?ssl=1\")
<\/a>Oczywi\u015bcie. Przy tak dok\u0142adnym planowanu, jakie uskuteczniam, objecha\u0142em p\u00f3\u0142wysep do ko\u0144ca, dok\u0142adnie zawijaj\u0105c p\u0119telk\u0119, by przejecha\u0107 ponownie t\u0105 pi\u0119kn\u0105 prze\u0142\u0119cz\u0105, kt\u00f3ra w tym czasie jeszcze wypi\u0119knia\u0142a, gdy\u017c \u015bniegu dosypa\u0142o. Celem na jutro jest Kirkjuffelssfoss i przejazd za dnia na zachodnie fiordy, ten \u015bliczny szczerbaty ogonek islandzkiej rybki, po lewej r\u0119ce, jak si\u0119 spojrzy na map\u0119 wyspy.![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/blog_widok-na-Atlantyk_VOL5018.jpg?ssl=1\")
<\/a>Ju\u017c w tej chwili go\u0142ym okiem wida\u0107, \u017ce nie zobacz\u0119 wiele wi\u0119cej – najpewniej nie starczy czasu, by ruszy\u0107 na p\u00f3\u0142noc. Mo\u017ce uda si\u0119 jakie\u015b \u017celazne miejsca na po\u0142udniowym wschodzie jeszcze obejrze\u0107, ale to przysz\u0142o\u015b\u0107 poka\u017ce.![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/blog_szczyty-_VOL4986.jpg?ssl=1\")
<\/a>Teraz siedz\u0119 na parkingu przy Kirkjuffelssfoss, podjechali jacy\u015b ludzie i niepokoj\u0105 swoj\u0105 obecno\u015bci\u0105, a ja pisz\u0119 i czuj\u0119, \u017ce r\u0119ce mi zaczynaj\u0105 marzn\u0105\u0107 – trzeba podkr\u0119ci\u0107 ogrzewanie… Mo\u017ce jednak skusz\u0119 si\u0119 na hostel jaki\u015b w najbli\u017cszym czasie.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"