{"id":2321,"date":"2018-06-02T06:00:27","date_gmt":"2018-06-02T04:00:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2321"},"modified":"2018-06-01T20:14:15","modified_gmt":"2018-06-01T18:14:15","slug":"nawariata","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2321","title":{"rendered":"nawariata"},"content":{"rendered":"

Te dwa dni to ci\u0105g\u0142a jazda bez trzymanki. W Saratowie wymy\u015bli\u0142em owe kulki, potem pomy\u015bla\u0142em sobie, \u017ce przecie\u017c to rzut beretem do Morza Kaspijskiego, naoko\u0142o kt\u00f3rego kr\u0105\u017c\u0119 od 8 lat i nie mog\u0119 jako\u015b go dotkn\u0105\u0107, wi\u0119c za jednym rzutem, niejako przy okazji, wpadniemy nad morze. <\/p>\n

Zacz\u0119li\u015bmy porankiem o zapachu sza\u0142wii, w Uralsku wymienili\u015bmy kas\u0119, tam te\u017c okaza\u0142o si\u0119, \u017ce w Kazachstanie nie sprzedaj\u0105 benzyny do plastikowych kanistr\u00f3w, a my mamy 10 plastikowych 20-litr\u00f3wek.<\/p>\n

Przejechali\u015bmy na po\u0142udnie bez specjalnych przyg\u00f3d poza kontrol\u0105 policji na trasie oraz ci\u0105g\u0142ymi remontami nawierzchni, po czym wjechali\u015bmy do Atyrau, miasta, w kt\u00f3rym nie ma motelu, hotelu, hostelu, gostinicy, restauracji z wifi ani prysznica. Po bezskutecznych poszukiwaniach pojechali\u015bmy dalej, a\u017c do Kulsary zamykaj\u0105c dzie\u0144 tras\u0105 ok. 750km. <\/p>\n

Gdzie\u015b tam, po drodze, przekroczyli\u015bmy granic\u0119 wyst\u0119powania wielb\u0142\u0105d\u00f3w i od tego czasu zwierz\u0105tka te b\u0142\u0105ka\u0142y si\u0119 wzd\u0142u\u017c jezdni razem z ko\u0144mi i inn\u0105 chudob\u0105. Par\u0119 godzin p\u00f3\u017aniej, po mi\u0142ym \u015bniadaniu z kierowcami ci\u0119\u017car\u00f3wek, trzasn\u0119li\u015bmy tras\u0119 d\u0142ugo\u015bci ok. 600km Kulsary – Shetpe – i a\u017c do naje\u017cononego \u017cmijami brzegu Morza Kaspijskiego. Razem wszystkiego 1350 kilometr\u00f3w w jedn\u0105 stron\u0119, by zobaczy\u0107 kulki, kt\u00f3rych w zasadzie nie odnale\u017ali\u015bmy. Przepi\u0119kne widoki w trasie, niekt\u00f3re g\u00f3ry przypominaj\u0105 Islandi\u0119, tylko temperatura inna. W trasie temperatura nie spada\u0142a poni\u017cej 34 stopni, raczej uparcie wdrapywa\u0142a si\u0119 coraz wy\u017cej na termometrze, by osi\u0105ga\u0107 jakie\u015b niespotykane warto\u015bci, powy\u017cej kt\u00f3rych oczy nam wysycha\u0142y w trakcie mrugania.<\/p>\n

\"20180522_120207\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
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\"_VOL0263\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n

W Shetpe rozpytali\u015bmy o kulki, ale udzielono nam wskaz\u00f3wek zbyt og\u00f3lnych, albo czego\u015b nie zrozumieli\u015bmy, wi\u0119c pojechali\u015bmy roz\u0142o\u017cy\u0107 ob\u00f3z nad morzem.<\/p>\n

Okaza\u0142o si\u0119, \u017ce to by\u0142y teren wojskowy sk\u0142adaj\u0105cy si\u0119 z molo do \u0142adowania na statki oraz dw\u00f3ch helipad\u00f3w. I ogromnego, nieprzeliczonego stada \u017cmij. P\u0142ywa\u0142y w Morzu Kaspijskim i \u017car\u0142y ma\u0142e rybki.<\/p>\n

\"_VOL0315\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
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\"_VOL0316\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
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\"_VOL0371\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n

Jeszcze nigdy nie spa\u0142em na helipadzie, za\u015bwita\u0142a mi taka my\u015bl. No wi\u0119c ju\u017c spa\u0142em. Na betonowym helipadzie, gdzie nie by\u0142o miejsca, by porz\u0105dnie wbi\u0107 szpilki namiotu.<\/p>\n

Wieczorem przyszed\u0142 do nas w odwiedziny okoliczny mieszkaniec, \u017carliwy muzu\u0142manin, wypytywa\u0142 o jakie\u015b zezwolenia, karty i tym podobne dziwactwa. \u0141yk \u015bliwowicy uspokoi\u0142 go w tym zakresie.<\/p>\n

W nocy za\u015b rozp\u0119ta\u0142a si\u0105 taka wichura, \u017ce jak sufit namiotu dotkn\u0105\u0142 mojego czo\u0142a, musia\u0142em dodatkowo wi\u0105za\u0107 odci\u0105gi do samochodu. Paw\u0142a namiot w og\u00f3le fruwa\u0142, zastanawiam si\u0119, jak on m\u00f3g\u0142 w tym spa\u0107.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Te dwa dni to ci\u0105g\u0142a jazda bez trzymanki. W Saratowie wymy\u015bli\u0142em owe kulki, potem pomy\u015bla\u0142em…<\/p>\n

Read the postnawariata<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2336,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[93,297],"tags":[307,306,305,205],"class_list":["post-2321","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-nawariata","category-bajkal","tag-307","tag-bajkal","tag-kazachstan","tag-nawariata","excerpt","zoom","full-without-featured","even","excerpt-0"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/VOL0225.jpg?fit=2464%2C1632&ssl=1","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p4lAri-Br","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":1495,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=1495","url_meta":{"origin":2321,"position":0},"title":"Czarny baran","author":"volen","date":"2015-10-08","format":false,"excerpt":"Noc w ko\u0144cu ciep\u0142a. Za to rozbijane po ciemku namioty le\u017ca\u0142y w takich miejscach, \u017ce generalnie nie mo\u017ana by\u0142o przyj\u0105\u0107 wygodnej pozycji. Wyjechali\u015bmy o \u015bwicie (czyli oko\u0142o 9.30) i pami\u0119taj\u0105c z wczoraj pasiek\u0119, pojechali\u015bmy kupi\u0107 miodu. Bardzo smaczny. Zw\u0142aszcza ten z py\u0142kiem kwiatowym w \u015brodku. Kobieta okaza\u0142a si\u0119 oporna na\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201ematuszka Rosja"","block_context":{"text":"matuszka Rosja","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=210"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3315.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3315.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3315.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3315.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/VOL3315.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1312,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=1312","url_meta":{"origin":2321,"position":1},"title":"Sighi\u0219oara","author":"volen","date":"2015-08-10","format":false,"excerpt":"Przed kontynuacj\u0105 podr\u00f3\u017cy postanowili\u015bmy skorzysta\u0107 z hotelowego internetu, ale, podobnie jak w innych miejscach, akurat nie dzia\u0142a\u0142. To wielce zastanawiaj\u0105ca przypad\u0142o\u015b\u0107 globalnej sieci w Europie, \u017ce dzia\u0142a, a w\u0142a\u015bciwie to z\u0142e okre\u015blenie - \u017ce funkcjonuje jak PKP. Jako, \u017ce z internetu nici, poszli\u015bmy za\u017cy\u0107 och\u0142ody w falach Morza Czarnego. W\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eBalkan eXpress"","block_context":{"text":"Balkan eXpress","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=194"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/VOL0884.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/VOL0884.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/VOL0884.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/VOL0884.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/VOL0884.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2369,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2369","url_meta":{"origin":2321,"position":2},"title":"\u015bnie\u017cnobia\u0142e klify Aktolagay","author":"volen","date":"2018-06-02","format":false,"excerpt":"Spora cz\u0119\u015b\u0107 trasy to same przejazdy, w czasie kt\u00f3rych nic si\u0119 nie dzieje, samoch\u00f3d \u0142yka kilometry, my py\u0142. Co jaki\u015b czas sier\u015b\u0107 (a przynajmniej wolimy tak my\u015ble\u0107) wielb\u0142\u0105d\u00f3w. Albo k\u00f3z. Wr\u00f3cili\u015bmy do Kulsary. Rano okaza\u0142o si\u0119, \u017ce rura wydechowa, kt\u00f3rej nie zd\u0105\u017cy\u0142em zespawa\u0107 przed wyjazdem, wisi na w\u0142osku. Przy okazji\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201enawariata"","block_context":{"text":"nawariata","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=93"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/VOL0871.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/VOL0871.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/VOL0871.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/VOL0871.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/VOL0871.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2736,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2736","url_meta":{"origin":2321,"position":3},"title":"nie","author":"volen","date":"2018-06-29","format":false,"excerpt":"Zaraz z samego rana wpad\u0142em na super pomys\u0142, \u017ceby ukr\u0119ci\u0107 \u015brub\u0119 przy kole... No, mo\u017ce nie do ko\u0144ca tak si\u0119 to odby\u0142o, ale efekt jaki jest, taki jest. Mamy luz na kole i ukr\u0119con\u0105 \u015brub\u0119. I to nie jedn\u0105 z 6-ciu szpilek, ale tak\u0105 znacznie wa\u017cniejsz\u0105, \u015brodkow\u0105. Z pr\u0119dko\u015bci\u0105 20km\/h\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201enawariata"","block_context":{"text":"nawariata","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=93"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/geyz_VOL3001.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/geyz_VOL3001.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/geyz_VOL3001.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/geyz_VOL3001.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/geyz_VOL3001.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2041,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2041","url_meta":{"origin":2321,"position":4},"title":"Dzie\u0144 pierwszy","author":"volen","date":"2016-11-14","format":false,"excerpt":"Si\u0105pili nosami pe\u0142nymi kataru... Wydawa\u0142oby si\u0119, \u017ce doro\u015bli ludzie, a ci\u0105gle tylko sffff, sffff... Przy oknie siedzia\u0142a Islandka, przy przej\u015bciu Polak. Mi\u0119dzy nimi ja.\u00a0 I ca\u0142\u0105 podr\u00f3\u017c si\u0105pili. A potem si\u0105pili na lotnisku, kiedy czekali\u015bmy na baga\u017ce... Czas p\u0142yn\u0105\u0142, czekali\u015bmy, a oni si\u0105pili... I do d\u0142ugiej listy rzeczy, kt\u00f3rych nie\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eIslandia: snj\u00f3r, \u00eds og eldur"","block_context":{"text":"Islandia: snj\u00f3r, \u00eds og eldur","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=268"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/droga_VOL4919_2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/droga_VOL4919_2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/droga_VOL4919_2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/droga_VOL4919_2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/droga_VOL4919_2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2084,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2084","url_meta":{"origin":2321,"position":5},"title":"Fiordy Zachodnie","author":"volen","date":"2016-11-16","format":false,"excerpt":"Dzisiejszej nocy wichura omal nie przestawi\u0142a samochodu... Hyundai Santa Fe ma z ty\u0142u k\u0105t natarcia, jak \u015bciana hipermarketu, wi\u0119c trz\u0119s\u0142o nim porz\u0105dnie. Wiatr zrywa\u0142 si\u0119 nagle, falami tak, \u017ce nie spos\u00f3b by\u0142o do tego przywykn\u0105\u0107. Nad ranem (ok. 6.00) obudzili mnie przyjezdni azjaci. 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