{"id":2858,"date":"2018-07-13T13:47:08","date_gmt":"2018-07-13T11:47:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2858"},"modified":"2018-07-11T06:17:01","modified_gmt":"2018-07-11T04:17:01","slug":"olchon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2858","title":{"rendered":"Olchon"},"content":{"rendered":"

Wsta\u0142em o 4 rano i poszed\u0142em robi\u0107 zdj\u0119cia. Najpierw delikatnie, ostro\u017cnie, jedno w porcie, drugie na policji, a potem ju\u017c \u015bmia\u0142o, odwa\u017cnie, poszed\u0142em cykn\u0105\u0107 szamank\u0119.<\/p>\n

To kraj Buriat\u00f3w, kt\u00f3rych uto\u017csamiam, zupe\u0142nie pewnie b\u0142\u0119dnie z Mongo\u0142ami. Pewne jest, \u017ce du\u017ca spo\u0142eczno\u015b\u0107 buriacka mieszka i pracuje w U\u0142an Bator s\u0105 dumni ze swojego pochodzenia i wcale tego nie kryj\u0105. Olchon jest \u015bwi\u0119t\u0105 wysp\u0105 Buriat\u00f3w, znajduje si\u0119 tu s\u0142awna na ca\u0142y \u015bwiat ska\u0142a Szamanka. Ze wzgl\u0119du na buriackie wierzenia, na wyspie, wzd\u0142u\u017c ich totem\u00f3w, pachnie skwa\u015bnia\u0142ym mlekiem i zepsut\u0105 \u017cywno\u015bci\u0105. Obrz\u0119dy, wierzenia, rytua\u0142y i przekonania nakazuj\u0105 im dzieli\u0107 si\u0119 czy te\u017c sk\u0142ada\u0107 ofiar\u0119 pod totemami, ju\u017c nie wnika\u0142em w szczeg\u00f3\u0142y.<\/p>\n

Po \u015bniadaniu i zwini\u0119ciu obozu pojechali\u015bmy zobaczy\u0107 p\u00f3\u0142nocn\u0105 cz\u0119\u015b\u0107 wyspy, koszt 450 rubli za dwie osoby i samoch\u00f3d. \u0141adne miejsca, fatalny dojazd. Tam, na przyl\u0105dku Mys Choboi (kt\u00f3rego nazwy normalnie nie pami\u0119tam, a kt\u00f3ra to nazwa oznacza chyba kamienny lub korzenny z\u0105b) dope\u0142ni\u0142em toastu za \u0141ukasza, to miejsce jest te\u017c szczeg\u00f3lnym ze wzgl\u0119du na fakt, \u017ce stanowi jak na razie najdalej wysuni\u0119ty na wsch\u00f3d punkt moich podr\u00f3\u017cy.<\/p>\n

\"20180705_042935\" <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
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\nOb\u00f3z roz\u0142o\u017cyli\u015bmy tam, gdzie poprzednio, dok\u0142adnie w tym samym miejscu. Podczas rozstawiania namiot\u00f3w przysz\u0142o do nas dw\u00f3ch turyst\u00f3w, Rosjan, maj\u0105cych swoje obozowisko nieopodal. Lekko wstawieni podziwiali autko, nasz\u0105 dotychczasow\u0105 tras\u0119 i dziwili si\u0119, \u017ce nie boimy si\u0119 Rosjan jako takich.
\nW przyp\u0142ywie s\u0142owia\u0144skiej czu\u0142o\u015bci i bratniej solidarno\u015bci pokazali nam te\u017c zio\u0142o dziurawca, kt\u00f3re ich \u017cony zbieraj\u0105, a oni w miasteczku widzieli je sprzedawane po 100 rubli od ma\u0142ej saszetki.<\/p>\n

W Chuzir nie ma normalnego pubu. Niby takie turystyczne miejsce, a nie ma. Albo \u017ale szuka\u0142em.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Wsta\u0142em o 4 rano i poszed\u0142em robi\u0107 zdj\u0119cia. Najpierw delikatnie, ostro\u017cnie, jedno w porcie, drugie…<\/p>\n

Read the postOlchon<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2898,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[93,297],"tags":[307,306,362,363,205,360,301,211,361],"class_list":["post-2858","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-nawariata","category-bajkal","tag-307","tag-bajkal","tag-chuzir","tag-mys-choboi","tag-nawariata","tag-olchon","tag-pchelka","tag-rosja","tag-szamanka","excerpt","zoom","full-without-featured","even","excerpt-0"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/pinetree_VOL3909.jpg?fit=2464%2C1372&ssl=1","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/s4lAri-olchon","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":3069,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=3069","url_meta":{"origin":2858,"position":0},"title":"Yellow","author":"volen","date":"2018-10-10","format":false,"excerpt":"Mia\u0142 przyjecha\u0107 na 9:00. Diewiat' nul nul. A wychodz\u0105c z hostelu do bankomatu, \u017ceby uruchomi\u0107 m\u00f3j rosyjski numer, wbijam prosto w mojego taks\u00f3wkarza z wczoraj. Przyjecha\u0142 wcze\u015bniej, bo to nigdy nie wiadomo. Poprosi\u0142em, \u017ceby zaczeka\u0142 i poszed\u0142em. Sberbank i KFC z zimn\u0105 w \u015brodku padlin\u0105. Ju\u017c zaczynam si\u0119 zastanawia\u0107, czemu\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201enawariata"","block_context":{"text":"nawariata","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=93"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/20181006_130754_HDR-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/20181006_130754_HDR-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/20181006_130754_HDR-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/20181006_130754_HDR-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/20181006_130754_HDR-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":3080,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=3080","url_meta":{"origin":2858,"position":1},"title":"Zagadki czasoprzestrzeni","author":"volen","date":"2018-10-13","format":false,"excerpt":"Przez to, \u017ce spa\u0107 poszed\u0142em w jakim\u015b nieistniej\u0105cym superniedoczasie, wsta\u0142em o 5tej i poszed\u0142em zdj\u0119cia robi\u0107. Meczet Ko\u0142 Szerif s\u0105siaduje z cerkwi\u0105, obok s\u0105 inne budowle niewiadomego przeznaczenia, a ai cam w lg stwierdzi\u0142o, \u017ce to \u015bwiatowej s\u0142awy \u0142\u00f3dka. No spoko. Niech b\u0119dzie i \u0142\u00f3dka. Jako, \u017ce od 5tej na\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201enawariata"","block_context":{"text":"nawariata","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=93"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/VOL9098.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/VOL9098.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/VOL9098.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/VOL9098.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/VOL9098.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2276,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2276","url_meta":{"origin":2858,"position":2},"title":"Rosja","author":"volen","date":"2018-05-18","format":false,"excerpt":"Dzisiaj nic si\u0119 nie dzia\u0142o. Ot wstali, pojechali, auto weso\u0142o warcza\u0142o... Trasa, jak trasa, rosyjska puta falowana i koleinowana wed\u0142ug zmiennych gust\u00f3w nast\u0119puj\u0105cych po sobie pokole\u0144 kierowc\u00f3w. Z nud\u00f3w, na przystanku, poszed\u0142em na normalny, zwyk\u0142y, dzieci\u0119cy plac zabaw, jakich wiele na ca\u0142ym \u015bwiecie. Za\u0142\u0105czam zdj\u0119cia dla potomno\u015bci. Bardzo fajne miejsce,\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201enawariata"","block_context":{"text":"nawariata","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=93"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/20180518_130720.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/20180518_130720.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/20180518_130720.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/20180518_130720.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/20180518_130720.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2395,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2395","url_meta":{"origin":2858,"position":3},"title":"Szejba","author":"volen","date":"2018-06-08","format":false,"excerpt":"Rano Pawe\u0142 ogarnia\u0142 \u015bniadanie, ja za\u0142o\u017cy\u0142em gumowe protezy na \u0142\u0105czniki. Na pocz\u0105tku niepokoi\u0142a mnie wi\u0119ksza \u015brednica otworu gumy, w kt\u00f3ry wchodzi metalowy trzpie\u0144, ale jako\u015b za\u0142o\u017cy\u0142em ca\u0142o\u015b\u0107 i pojechali\u015bmy. Co oczywiste - przy ostro\u017cnym zje\u017adzie z miejsca biwaku co\u015b plumkn\u0119\u0142o, a zawieszenie znowu zacz\u0119\u0142o stuka\u0107. Po dwustu metrach sprawdzili\u015bmy co\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201enawariata"","block_context":{"text":"nawariata","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=93"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/20180527_094842.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/20180527_094842.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/20180527_094842.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/20180527_094842.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/20180527_094842.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":3088,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=3088","url_meta":{"origin":2858,"position":4},"title":"Ko\u0142omyja","author":"volen","date":"2018-10-15","format":false,"excerpt":"Rano poszed\u0142em si\u0119 przej\u015b\u0107, poszuka\u0107 prawnika, za\u0142atwi\u0107 transport i takie tam drobiazgi. W ca\u0142ym logistycznym szale\u0144stwie usi\u0142owa\u0142em nie zwariowa\u0107, podejmowa\u0107 racjonalne decyzje, koordynowa\u0107, odpowiada\u0107 na pytania, zadawa\u0107 swoje, szuka\u0107 dziwnych rzeczy w dziwnym j\u0119zyku i jeszcze dziwniejszymi literami po rosyjskiej stronie internetu, dzi\u0119ki czemu jest 15:43 a mi si\u0119 chce\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201enawariata"","block_context":{"text":"nawariata","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=93"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":3083,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=3083","url_meta":{"origin":2858,"position":5},"title":"Ja w roli Syzyfa","author":"volen","date":"2018-10-14","format":false,"excerpt":"Rano, tym razem o normalnej porze, po \u015bniadaniu, ruszy\u0142em dalej, w stron\u0119 Moskwy. Kiedy\u015b, dawno temu, zaznaczy\u0142em sobie na mapie punkt w pobli\u017cu, kt\u00f3ry chcia\u0142em zobaczy\u0107, teraz ju\u017c nie pami\u0119tam z jakiego powodu i co to w og\u00f3le by\u0142o. Zjecha\u0142em z kraj\u00f3wki i, wiedziony gpsem, pojecha\u0142em w kierunku rzeki. Niestety,\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201enawariata"","block_context":{"text":"nawariata","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=93"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/20181010_131420_HDR-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/20181010_131420_HDR-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/20181010_131420_HDR-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/20181010_131420_HDR-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/20181010_131420_HDR-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C600&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2858","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2858"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2858\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2903,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2858\/revisions\/2903"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2898"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2858"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2858"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2858"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}