{"id":376,"date":"2014-03-28T21:21:31","date_gmt":"2014-03-28T20:21:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=376"},"modified":"2014-10-09T17:42:36","modified_gmt":"2014-10-09T15:42:36","slug":"wiosna-ach-to-ty","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=376","title":{"rendered":"Wiosna, ach to Ty..!"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Po-bud-ka! Wcale nie chcia\u0142o nam si\u0119 wstawa\u0107. Jedynie \u015bwiadomo\u015b\u0107, \u017ce zaraz ze\u017cr\u0105 nam \u015bniadanie wyci\u0105gn\u0119\u0142a nas z \u0142\u00f3\u017cka. Po wyj\u015bciu z pokoju trafili\u015bmy na jak\u0105\u015b konferencj\u0119, mo\u017cna jedynie wyobrazi\u0107 sobie radosne zdumienie gruzi\u0144skich niewiast, w niej udzia\u0142 bior\u0105cych, na widok zaspanej pary wy\u0142aniaj\u0105cej si\u0119 zza drzwi. Hotel nasz nie pr\u00f3\u017cnuje i &#8211; wydaje si\u0119 &#8211; zrobi\u0142 dwie konferencje w tym samym czasie, poniewa\u017c na dole pe\u0142no by\u0142o z kolei Gruzin\u00f3w, kt\u00f3rzy usi\u0142owali sto\u0142owa\u0107 si\u0119 przy naszym stoliku. Mia\u0142o si\u0119 nosa&#8230; Pi\u0119kny dzie\u0144. S\u0142o\u0144ce \u015bwieci&#8230; Poszli\u015bmy szuka\u0107 transportu na wsch\u00f3d, po czym dali\u015bmy si\u0119 nakr\u0119ci\u0107 jak dzieci taks\u00f3wkarzowi.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/taxi-driver-_DSC5478.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"371\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=371\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/taxi-driver-_DSC5478.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1208,800\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"taxi driver _DSC5478\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/taxi-driver-_DSC5478.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-371\" alt=\"taxi driver _DSC5478\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/taxi-driver-_DSC5478.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/taxi-driver-_DSC5478.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/taxi-driver-_DSC5478.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Obieca\u0142 nam on g\u00f3ry ze z\u0142ota, klasztory \u017ce\u0144skie i m\u0119skie, wina po gard\u0142o, przepi\u0119kne krajobrazy, oraz \u017ce nie b\u0119dzie z nas zdziera\u0142 i przyjacielem naszym zostanie po ostatnie swe tchnienie. Pojechali\u015bmy zatem wraz z nim najpierw do monastyru Jvari.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/jvari-_DSC5545.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"367\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=367\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/jvari-_DSC5545.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1208,800\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"jvari _DSC5545\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/jvari-_DSC5545.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-367\" alt=\"jvari _DSC5545\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/jvari-_DSC5545.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/jvari-_DSC5545.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/jvari-_DSC5545.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>\u0141adny. Pe\u0142no Polak\u00f3w. Mn\u00f3stwo kr\u00f3w. Kilkoro tubylc\u00f3w uzbrojonych w pami\u0105tki albo b\u0142agaj\u0105ce spojrzenia. Z g\u00f3ry widok na Mcchet\u0119 z jej katedr\u0105, nowym-starym miastem, river-crossingiem i nowoczesnym osiedlem o stylizacji, jak stare miasto. Biedny\u00a0 taks\u00f3wkarz nie wiedzia\u0142, na co si\u0119 pisze. Jak m\u00f3j Kot podpowiada, 15 razy zmienia\u0142em obiektywy, 30 razy k\u0142ad\u0142em si\u0119 na ziemi, 40 razy kuca\u0142em, a wszystko po to, by zrobi\u0107 to jedno, jedyne, najlepsze zdj\u0119cie dla National Geographic. Na razie zwodz\u0119 ich brakiem czasu, ale wci\u0105\u017c si\u0119 dopominaj\u0105&#8230;<br \/>\nZje\u017cd\u017caj\u0105c z Jvari kr\u0119t\u0105 \u015bcie\u017cyn\u0105 ujrzeli\u015bmy rozbite autko, na ca\u0142e szcz\u0119\u015bcie nic nikomu, cho\u0107 auto do wyrzucenia. Ten nar\u00f3d obdarzony jest wysokim stopniem empatii, ludzie zatrzymuj\u0105 si\u0119, by pom\u00f3c, a nie &#8211; jak w Polsce &#8211; podejrzewaj\u0105, \u017ce to cyga\u0144ski podst\u0119p, wi\u0119c jedynie zwalniaj\u0105, by si\u0119 pogapi\u0107 na cudze nieszcz\u0119\u015bcie.<br \/>\nTaks\u00f3wkarz nasz, znudzony pierwszym przystankiem, pomkn\u0105\u0142 jak z\u0142ota strza\u0142a prosto w stron\u0119 Ananuri. Wstrzyma\u0142 wierzchowca na popas dopiero przy Zhinvali Reservoir, opowiedzia\u0142 par\u0119 gorzkich historii na temat zalanych cerkwi, albo zalanych ruskich, nie bardzo go zrozumieli\u015bmy, wiemy \u017ce mokro by\u0142o.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/jezioro-_DSC5565.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"366\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=366\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/jezioro-_DSC5565.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1208,800\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"jezioro _DSC5565\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/jezioro-_DSC5565.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-366\" alt=\"jezioro _DSC5565\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/jezioro-_DSC5565.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/jezioro-_DSC5565.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/jezioro-_DSC5565.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nObejrzeli\u015bmy fantastyczne ruiny Ananuri, przyklejon\u0105 do cerkwi wie\u017cyczk\u0119, magazyny, cerkiew w \u015brodku, wie\u017cyczki obronne, zapadni\u0119ty strych, przej\u015bcie na skr\u00f3t w stron\u0119 'plebanii&#8217; a tak\u017ce m\u0142od\u0105 gruzink\u0119 z miote\u0142k\u0105. Zaj\u0119\u0142o nam to sporo czasu, gdy\u017c w pami\u0119ci miejcie me starania o zdj\u0119cie dla NG.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ananuri-_DSC56951.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"375\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=375\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ananuri-_DSC56951.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1208,800\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"ananuri _DSC5695\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ananuri-_DSC56951.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-375\" alt=\"ananuri _DSC5695\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ananuri-_DSC56951.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ananuri-_DSC56951.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ananuri-_DSC56951.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Znudzenie taks\u00f3wkarza by\u0142o s\u0142ycha\u0107 w wydychanym powietrzu, zawi\u00f3z\u0142 nas p\u0119dem do Mcchety, gdzie odnalaz\u0142 dla nas przytulny, cho\u0107 zimny jak lodowiec pok\u00f3j i uciek\u0142, zostawiaj\u0105c numer telefonu do swojego znienawidzonego kolegi, gdyby nasz\u0142a nas ochota na dalsze ekskursje.<br \/>\nGospodyni przywita\u0142a nas bia\u0142\u0105 zup\u0105 z jajkiem, ry\u017cem i koperkiem. Smaczna. Bochenek chleba na przystawk\u0119. Gospodyni jest nie lada figur\u0105 w mie\u015bcie. Ma w\u0142asny salon fryzjerski, wi\u0119c wie, co si\u0119 w kraju dzieje, lepiej ni\u017c prezydent. Pokaza\u0142a nam te\u017c swoje wozide\u0142ko. Pogratulowali\u015bmy. Posileni poszli\u015bmy zwiedza\u0107. Pierwsze kilkana\u015bcie minut oganiali\u015bmy si\u0119 od taks\u00f3wkarzy i pomagaczy, a\u017c znudzili si\u0119, albo doszli do wniosku, \u017ce\u015bmy niespe\u0142na rozumu.<br \/>\nMccheta. Wiemy, wiemy. \u015awi\u0119tokradztwo. Najciekawszy w Mcchecie by\u0142 kot, kt\u00f3ry wdrapa\u0142 si\u0119 z nara\u017ceniem \u017cycia do mojego Kota, \u017ceby da\u0107 si\u0119 pog\u0142aska\u0107. Nie lubimy wymuskanej star\u00f3wki, wymuskanej katedry, wymuskanych zwiedzaj\u0105cych, ba! wymuskanych \u017cebrak\u00f3w! Sztuczno\u015b\u0107 nad sztuczno\u015bciami, vide Kotor w Czarnog\u00f3rze. Je\u017celi TO jest pi\u0119kne, to bardzo mocno przykryte tonami makija\u017cu. Ale oczywi\u015bcie, zdajemy sobie spraw\u0119 z tego, \u017ce innym mo\u017ce si\u0119 podoba\u0107.<em> De gustibus non disputandum est.<\/em><br \/>\nPoszli\u015bmy pochodzi\u0107 po mie\u015bcie swoimi \u015bcie\u017ckami, znale\u017ali\u015bmy zamkni\u0119tego \u017arebaka mi\u0119dzy p\u0142otami, \u015bwinie w zagr\u00f3dce, rozsypany cmentarz, cerkiew z popem i mod\u0142ami (nabo\u017ce\u0144stwo ku pami\u0119ci zmar\u0142ego), opuszczone kino,<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kino-_DSC5856.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"373\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=373\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kino-_DSC5856.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1208,800\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"kino _DSC5856\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kino-_DSC5856.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-373\" alt=\"kino _DSC5856\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kino-_DSC5856.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kino-_DSC5856.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kino-_DSC5856.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>ruiny Bebriz Ciche,<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ruiny-_DSC5868.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"370\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=370\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ruiny-_DSC5868.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1208,800\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"ruiny _DSC5868\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ruiny-_DSC5868.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-370\" alt=\"ruiny _DSC5868\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ruiny-_DSC5868.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ruiny-_DSC5868.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ruiny-_DSC5868.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>zeszli\u015bmy ku rzece Aragvi przez opuszczony niby-park w nowopowstaj\u0105ce osiedle, ha! znale\u017ali\u015bmy nawet ca\u0142kiem \u015bwie\u017c\u0105 polsk\u0105 flag\u0119 na jakimsik budynku rz\u0105dowopochodnym. Ale najwa\u017cniejsze to to, \u017ce ca\u0142a Mccheta pachnie kwiatami. Kwitn\u0105 drzewka owocowe i bez. Pr\u00f3bowali\u015bmy wy\u015bledzi\u0107 gatunek i po starych trupkach owocowych doszli\u015bmy do wniosku, \u017ce mog\u0105 to by\u0107 \u015bliwki.<br \/>\nWiosna, Panie&#8230; Wiosna w pe\u0142ni. Wida\u0107 i czu\u0107.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kot-kwiaty-w%C4%85chaj%C4%85cy-_DSC57741.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"374\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=374\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kot-kwiaty-w%C4%85chaj%C4%85cy-_DSC57741.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1208,800\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"kot kwiaty w\u0105chaj\u0105cy _DSC5774\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kot-kwiaty-w%C4%85chaj%C4%85cy-_DSC57741.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-374\" alt=\"kot kwiaty w\u0105chaj\u0105cy _DSC5774\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kot-kwiaty-w%C4%85chaj%C4%85cy-_DSC57741.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kot-kwiaty-w%C4%85chaj%C4%85cy-_DSC57741.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kot-kwiaty-w%C4%85chaj%C4%85cy-_DSC57741.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nCiemno\u015b\u0107 nas dopad\u0142a wraz z g\u0142odem, wi\u0119c zaszli\u015bmy do lokalnej jamy z piwem i klopsami. Nie pami\u0119tamy nazwy. Pami\u0119tamy, \u017ce by\u0142o pusto, ciemno, zimno, przywita\u0142a nas zaryczana, zasmarkana nieszcz\u0119\u015bciem mi\u0142osnym Gruzinka lat ok. 26, kt\u00f3ra z trudem trzyma\u0142a kontakt z rzeczywisto\u015bci\u0105.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/knajpa-_DSC6001.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"368\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?attachment_id=368\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/knajpa-_DSC6001.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1208,800\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"knajpa _DSC6001\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/knajpa-_DSC6001.jpg?fit=1208%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-368\" alt=\"knajpa _DSC6001\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/knajpa-_DSC6001.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&#038;ssl=1\" width=\"1024\" height=\"678\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/knajpa-_DSC6001.jpg?resize=1024%2C678&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/knajpa-_DSC6001.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Nie uwierzy\u0142a moim angielskim zapewnieniom, \u017ce z czasem b\u0119dzie lepiej. Przyduszona przynios\u0142a pyszne chinkali i piwo. Chinkali bardziej wo\u0142owe ni\u017c w Tbilisi i odrobin\u0119 ostrzejsze. Gdzie\u015b w tyle g\u0142owy b\u0142\u0105ka\u0142a si\u0119 my\u015bl, \u017ce nasza gospodyni by\u0107 mo\u017ce przygotowuje dla nas jak\u0105\u015b 'ciam\u0119&#8217;, co wzbudza\u0142o w nas l\u0119k i rado\u015b\u0107 g\u0142upaw\u0105&#8230;<br \/>\nPo powrocie, ca\u0142e szcz\u0119\u015bcie, nie wmuszali w nas jedzenia, cho\u0107 uszczkn\u0119li\u015bmy tego i owego: jakie\u015b co\u015b, czego nazwa nam umkn\u0119\u0142a, a przypomina\u0142o krokieto-sajgonk\u0119 z farszem ry\u017cowo-warzywnym i kawa\u0142kami mi\u0119ska oraz chlebki kukurydziane. Pychota.<br \/>\nA wracaj\u0105c z Olimpu na ziemi\u0119. Zimno jak w psiarni. Zimna woda. Brrr&#8230; Ale herbat\u0119 dostali\u015bmy do \u0142\u00f3\u017cka. A nast\u0119pnego dnia rano&#8230; To ju\u017c p\u00f3\u017aniej opowiemy.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Po-bud-ka! Wcale nie chcia\u0142o nam si\u0119 wstawa\u0107. Jedynie \u015bwiadomo\u015b\u0107, \u017ce zaraz ze\u017cr\u0105 nam \u015bniadanie wyci\u0105gn\u0119\u0142a&#8230;<\/p>\n<div class=\"more-link-wrapper\"><a class=\"more-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=376\">Read the post<span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Wiosna, ach to Ty..!<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":365,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[133,93],"tags":[92,104,205],"class_list":["post-376","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-gruzja2014","category-nawariata","tag-gruzja","tag-mccheta","tag-nawariata","excerpt","zoom","full-without-featured","even","excerpt-0"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/ikona-jvari-_DSC5481.jpg?fit=1208%2C969&ssl=1","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p4lAri-64","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":492,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=492","url_meta":{"origin":376,"position":0},"title":"Ostatnia wieczerza. Martvili.","author":"volen","date":"2014-04-01","format":false,"excerpt":"W zugdzidzkim hotelu otrzyma\u0142em, jak dot\u0105d, najlepsz\u0105 turkisz kofi, jak\u0105 w \u017cyciu pi\u0142em. Ania te\u017c. Cho\u0107 w\u0105tpi\u0119 osobi\u015bcie, czy to zauwa\u017cy\u0142a, gdy\u017c woli herbaty. Poza tym, cz\u0119\u015b\u0107 jej odpi\u0142em, \u017ceby nie mia\u0142a za dobrze. Posileni kaw\u0105 poszli\u015bmy schwyta\u0107 marszrutk\u0119 do Martvili, kt\u00f3re to wynalaz\u0142 Kot m\u00f3j ciekawski. Wiemy, \u017ce jest\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eGruzja 2014&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Gruzja 2014","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=133"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/kapliczka-_DSC6617.jpg?fit=795%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/kapliczka-_DSC6617.jpg?fit=795%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/kapliczka-_DSC6617.jpg?fit=795%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/kapliczka-_DSC6617.jpg?fit=795%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":423,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=423","url_meta":{"origin":376,"position":1},"title":"kocie urodzinki","author":"volen","date":"2014-03-30","format":false,"excerpt":"W Kutaisi dysponowali\u015bmy czasem 50 minut, wi\u0119c rozpocz\u0119li\u015bmy ci\u0105g dalszy akcji 'znajd\u017abuta', kt\u00f3ra to oczywi\u015bcie nic nie da\u0142a, po czym wsiedli\u015bmy do marszrutki, wyci\u0105gn\u0119li\u015bmy map\u0119 i... klops! Okaza\u0142o si\u0119, \u017ce Kobuleti pomylili\u015bmy z Zugdidi, niech nam B\u00f3g wybaczy. Zamiast na p\u00f3\u0142noc, los ci\u0105gnie nas za k\u0142aki prosto na po\u0142udnie. Mieli\u015bmy\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eGruzja 2014&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Gruzja 2014","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=133"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/brudzio-_DSC6223.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/brudzio-_DSC6223.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/brudzio-_DSC6223.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/brudzio-_DSC6223.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/brudzio-_DSC6223.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":408,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=408","url_meta":{"origin":376,"position":2},"title":"czasem szcz\u0119\u015bciu dopom\u00f3c trzeba kopem","author":"volen","date":"2014-03-30","format":false,"excerpt":"Przesta\u0142o pada\u0107! By\u0142o w miar\u0119 sucho. Za to przyroda nie posk\u0105pi\u0142a niespodzianki i zes\u0142a\u0142a mr\u00f3z i \u015bniegiem umai\u0142a chodniki. Nie musz\u0119 dodawa\u0107, \u017ce do Gruzji wybrali\u015bmy si\u0119 w do\u015b\u0107 przewiewnym obuwiu, by nie rzec, \u017ce niekt\u00f3rzy z nas wr\u0119cz w sanda\u0142ach? Tak, czy owak, po wypiciu g\u0119stej kawy, udali\u015bmy si\u0119\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eGruzja 2014&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Gruzja 2014","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=133"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kolekcja-_DSC6160.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kolekcja-_DSC6160.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kolekcja-_DSC6160.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kolekcja-_DSC6160.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/kolekcja-_DSC6160.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":467,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=467","url_meta":{"origin":376,"position":3},"title":"\u10ed\u10d8\u10d0\u10dc\u10ed\u10d5\u10d4\u10da\u10d4\u10d1\u10d8\u10e1 &#8211; mr\u00f3weczki","author":"volen","date":"2014-03-31","format":false,"excerpt":"Pocz\u0105tek dnia, opr\u00f3cz \u015bniadania w mi\u0142ym towarzystwie, przyni\u00f3s\u0142 opady \u015bniegu. Nie przypuszczali\u015bmy, \u017ce b\u0119dzie tu tak zimowo. Nugzari i Gia zawie\u017ali nas do marszrutki, kt\u00f3ra okaza\u0142a si\u0119 marszrutk\u0105 do Poti, gdzie mieli\u015bmy si\u0119 przesi\u0105\u015b\u0107. Nie by\u0142oby nic do dodania, gdyby nie fakt, i\u017c ten wehiku\u0142 pozbawiony by\u0142 zupe\u0142nie amortyzator\u00f3w oraz\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eGruzja 2014&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Gruzja 2014","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=133"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/zugdidi-golibroda-_DSC6428.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/zugdidi-golibroda-_DSC6428.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/zugdidi-golibroda-_DSC6428.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/zugdidi-golibroda-_DSC6428.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/zugdidi-golibroda-_DSC6428.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":231,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=231","url_meta":{"origin":376,"position":4},"title":"Achalciche Vardzia i z powrotem","author":"volen","date":"2012-10-06","format":false,"excerpt":"Mieli\u015bmy wsta\u0107 z rana, ale wy\u0142\u0105czony telefon nie budzi, o czym osobi\u015bcie zapomnia\u0142em i nikt nigdy nie dowie si\u0119, czy zrobi\u0142em to z premedytacj\u0105, czy przez zapomnienie. Mniejsza o to. Po \u015bniadaniu poszli\u015bmy na ulic\u0119 \u0142apa\u0107 marszrutk\u0119 do Achalciche. Za drugim strza\u0142em uda\u0142o si\u0119. Wspomnienie tej podr\u00f3\u017cy na d\u0142ugo zapisze\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201e7000km - 2012&quot;","block_context":{"text":"7000km - 2012","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=135"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/DSC_6450.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/DSC_6450.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/DSC_6450.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/DSC_6450.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/DSC_6450.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2006,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2006","url_meta":{"origin":376,"position":5},"title":"Po\u017cegnanie","author":"volen","date":"2017-01-02","format":false,"excerpt":"Zaraz z rana, po toalecie, ruszylil\u015bmy obejrze\u0107 jaskini\u0119 Prometeusza, kt\u00f3ry podobno zaraz po tym, jak podw\u0119dzi\u0142 bogom ogie\u0144, zosta\u0142 przykuty do ska\u0142 Kaukazu. Ba! Niekt\u00f3rzy twierdz\u0105, \u017ce mieszka\u0142 w owej jaskini do niedawna i wyp\u0142oszy\u0142y go dopiero sowieckie misje speleologiczne z 1984-ego. Jak by\u0142o, tak by\u0142o, nie wnikamy, chcieli\u015bmy jedynie\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201enawariata&quot;","block_context":{"text":"nawariata","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=93"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/20160821_090705.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/20160821_090705.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/20160821_090705.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/20160821_090705.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/20160821_090705.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/376","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=376"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/376\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":522,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/376\/revisions\/522"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/365"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=376"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=376"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=376"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}