{"id":845,"date":"2014-10-27T05:35:40","date_gmt":"2014-10-27T04:35:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=845"},"modified":"2014-11-01T21:16:47","modified_gmt":"2014-11-01T20:16:47","slug":"leniwy-dzien-w-paracas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=845","title":{"rendered":"Leniwy dzie\u0144 w Paracas"},"content":{"rendered":"

W mi\u0119dzyczasie okaza\u0142o si\u0119, \u017ce napad zosta\u0142 anulowany, droga przebieg\u0142a w miar\u0119 spokojnie, za\u015b my, po sutym, autobusowym \u015bniadanku, wyszli\u015bmy wprost w nieziemskiej cudowno\u015bci zajazd Cruz del Sur w Paracas, kt\u00f3ren przypomina Bagdad w latach operacji pustynna burza. Lubimy takie klimaty. To tu znajduje si\u0119 te\u017c cudaczny obelisk, ni w pi\u0119\u0107, ni w dziewi\u0119\u0107, wystaj\u0105cy znienacka z pustyni. Gwoli wyja\u015bnienia dodamy, \u017ce na peruwia\u0144skim wybrze\u017cu rocznie spada 20mm deszczu, mo\u017ce st\u0105d niewielkie braki w ro\u015blinno\u015bci.<\/p>\n

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Id\u0105c spokojnie ode dworca, spotkali\u015bmy Jimmy’ego, ale innego ni\u017c ten od samochodu. Ten prowadzi w\u0142asny biznes, za\u0142atwia wycieczki na Islas Ballestas, tudzie\u017c do Reserva Nacional de Paracas. Pogadali\u015bmy troch\u0119, przyobiecali\u015bmy bez entuzjazmu, \u017ce mo\u017ce jutro, i owszem, po czym – uzbrojeni przeze\u0144 w map\u0119 pogl\u0105dow\u0105 Paracas – poszli\u015bmy do hostelu.<\/p>\n

Hostel sprawi\u0142 dobre, porz\u0105dne wra\u017cenie. By\u0142a ciep\u0142a woda. By\u0142 internet. Czyste, schludne, jak na peruwia\u0144skie warunki, pokoje i \u0142azienka. Mama, tata, c\u00f3runia i czarny psiak, niewielki shi-tzu w r\u00f3\u017cowym p\u0142aszczyku, pilnowali interesu.<\/p>\n

Jako, \u017ce wielkimi kroki zbli\u017ca\u0142 si\u0119 koniec naszego pobytu na p\u00f3\u0142kuli po\u0142udniowej, postanowili\u015bmy zwolni\u0107 jeszcze troch\u0119, zaczerpn\u0105\u0107 powietrza, za\u017cy\u0107 spaceru i s\u0142o\u0144ca, a mo\u017ce i k\u0105pieli, wi\u0119c za\u017cyczyli\u015bmy dwie noce, na co rodzinka hostelowa przysta\u0142a ochoczo. Podejrzewamy, \u017ce to pierwszy raz, jak kto\u015b przyjezdny w Paracas nocowa\u0142 dwa razy z rz\u0119du. Ma\u0142a to bowiem mie\u015bcina, niewiele si\u0119 tu dzieje, ale to nie rozmiar ma znaczenie, jak co inteligentniejsi wiedz\u0105. Paracas to nie miasto, lecz jedynie brama wjazdowa do parku i na wyspy, po prostu, \u017ceby bli\u017cej by\u0142o, ni\u017c z Pisca si\u0119 telepa\u0107.<\/p>\n

Ten dzie\u0144 pierwszy to dzie\u0144 zadumy i zamy\u015blenia. Poszli\u015bmy brzegiem wzd\u0142u\u017c oceanu, ogl\u0105dali\u015bmy ptactwo tutejsze, czaple, mewy, pelikany, bia\u0142e posiad\u0142o\u015bci bogaczy, kutry rybackie i dzikie wyg\u0142upy kite-surfer\u00f3w, a s\u0142o\u0144ce liza\u0142o nasze \u0142ydki. Nad samym oceanem ludziska nie szcz\u0119dz\u0105 s\u0142odkiej wody, by otoczy\u0107 si\u0119 zieleni\u0105.<\/p>\n

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W jednej z 34 restauracyjek w miasteczku zjedli\u015bmy obiad, kt\u00f3ry wart jest wspomnienia z dw\u00f3ch powod\u00f3w. Pierwszy, \u017ce Kot po\u0142akomi\u0142 si\u0119 na owoce morza w ry\u017cu, co Jej bokiem wychodzi, drugi to taki, \u017ce wzi\u0105\u0142em chicherone de calmar, co objawieniem kulinarnym si\u0119 sta\u0142o. Pychotka. Ze sma\u017con\u0105 na g\u0142\u0119bokim t\u0142uszczu juk\u0105 i ustapal\u0105cym sosem chili.
\nPolenili\u015bmy si\u0119 troch\u0119, a jak s\u0142o\u0144ce wpad\u0142o do wody i zrobi\u0142o si\u0119 ch\u0142odno, poszli\u015bmy spa\u0107.\"zach\u00f3d<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

W mi\u0119dzyczasie okaza\u0142o si\u0119, \u017ce napad zosta\u0142 anulowany, droga przebieg\u0142a w miar\u0119 spokojnie, za\u015b my,…<\/p>\n

Read the postLeniwy dzie\u0144 w Paracas<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":849,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[138,93],"tags":[10,141,205,166,147,60],"class_list":["post-845","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-a-la-conquista-de-america","category-nawariata","tag-10","tag-ameryka","tag-nawariata","tag-paracas","tag-peru","tag-podroze","excerpt","zoom","full-without-featured","even","excerpt-0"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/DSC0779.jpg?fit=2464%2C1632&ssl=1","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p4lAri-dD","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":879,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=879","url_meta":{"origin":845,"position":0},"title":"Islas Ballestas & postapokaliptyczny Paracas National Reserve","author":"volen","date":"2014-10-28","format":false,"excerpt":"Rano obudzi\u0142 nas budzik. Nie dowierzaj\u0105c w\u0142asnym uszom i nie wierz\u0105c we w\u0142asn\u0105 pod\u0142o\u015b\u0107 zwlok\u0142em zeskwarczone we wczorajszym s\u0142o\u0144cu zw\u0142oki i wy\u0142\u0105czy\u0142em d\u017awi\u0119k rannego koguta. Trzeba si\u0119 zawija\u0107. Je\u017celi chcemy obejrze\u0107 Islas Ballestas, przez ludzi ma\u0142ych i zawistnych zwanych Galapagos dla ubogich, nale\u017cy wpa\u015b\u0107 na marin\u0119 o 8.00. Szybko wtrz\u0105chn\u0105wszy\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201ea la conquista de Am\u00e9rica"","block_context":{"text":"a la conquista de Am\u00e9rica","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=138"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/DSC1438.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/DSC1438.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/DSC1438.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/DSC1438.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/DSC1438.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1043,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=1043","url_meta":{"origin":845,"position":1},"title":"Organizacja to podstawa","author":"volen","date":"2014-11-11","format":false,"excerpt":"A dobra organizacja to bardzo dobra podstawa. 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Wyt\u0142umaczy\u0142em Kotu, co i jak, a tak\u017ce zarz\u0105dzi\u0142em zmian\u0119 plan\u00f3w z przejazdu autobusem na przelot samolotem do Ica, ale summa summarum nic z tego nie wysz\u0142o, o czym p\u00f3\u017aniej jeszcze dwa s\u0142owa napomkn\u0119. Kot przera\u017cony logik\u0105 moich argument\u00f3w nie do podwa\u017cenia, \u015bniadanie - niech\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201ea la conquista de Am\u00e9rica"","block_context":{"text":"a la conquista de Am\u00e9rica","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=138"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/ikona-_DSC0643-2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/ikona-_DSC0643-2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/ikona-_DSC0643-2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/ikona-_DSC0643-2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/ikona-_DSC0643-2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":926,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=926","url_meta":{"origin":845,"position":3},"title":"do Pacanowa","author":"volen","date":"2014-10-29","format":false,"excerpt":"Postanowili\u015bmy skorzysta\u0107 z dobrodziejstw cywilizacji przed wyjazdem i d\u0142u\u017csz\u0105 podr\u00f3\u017c\u0105, tak wi\u0119c od rana k\u0142\u0119by pary bucha\u0142y spod naszego prysznica. 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Zgrubny plan by\u0142 taki, by wypi\u0107\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201ea la conquista de Am\u00e9rica"","block_context":{"text":"a la conquista de Am\u00e9rica","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=138"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/DSC1948.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/DSC1948.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/DSC1948.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/DSC1948.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/DSC1948.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2438,"url":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?p=2438","url_meta":{"origin":845,"position":4},"title":"Piasek, woda i gaszenie po\u017caru","author":"volen","date":"2018-06-09","format":false,"excerpt":"Koniki, kt\u00f3re wieczorem nas odwiedzi\u0142y, rano pas\u0142y si\u0119 nieopodal. 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Wydawa\u0142oby si\u0119, \u017ce doro\u015bli ludzie, a ci\u0105gle tylko sffff, sffff... Przy oknie siedzia\u0142a Islandka, przy przej\u015bciu Polak. Mi\u0119dzy nimi ja.\u00a0 I ca\u0142\u0105 podr\u00f3\u017c si\u0105pili. A potem si\u0105pili na lotnisku, kiedy czekali\u015bmy na baga\u017ce... Czas p\u0142yn\u0105\u0142, czekali\u015bmy, a oni si\u0105pili... I do d\u0142ugiej listy rzeczy, kt\u00f3rych nie\u2026","rel":"","context":"W \u201eIslandia: snj\u00f3r, \u00eds og eldur"","block_context":{"text":"Islandia: snj\u00f3r, \u00eds og eldur","link":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/?cat=268"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/droga_VOL4919_2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/droga_VOL4919_2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/droga_VOL4919_2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/droga_VOL4919_2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.volen.pl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/droga_VOL4919_2.jpg?fit=1200%2C795&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/845","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=845"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/845\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":878,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/845\/revisions\/878"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/849"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=845"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=845"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.volen.pl\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=845"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}